With their popularity on platforms such as YouTube and TikTok, skincare routines have taken the world by storm. This has encouraged consumers to buy different products for both their AM routine to get ready for the day and also for their PM routine before bed. Skincare influencers and dermatologists are found all over the internet giving advice on what products to use, when to use them and how to use them. This experienced advice is helpful to someone who has never had a skincare routine, or who has never understood the potential benefits of one. However, it could also influence people to spend hundreds of dollars on new products and involve themselves in a process that may be harmful for their skin. That being said, how beneficial is having a skincare routine and how did this push for skincare even come about?
Skincare has existed since Ancient Egypt, with records of items like olive oil and clay being used for deep cleaning, honey and milk to hydrate the skin, and sand and aloe vera for exfoliation. According BeautyBio, Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk, which contains lactic acid, with the intention of smoothing her skin. Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid, (AHA), like glycolic acid or citric acid, which is commonly found in skincare products to reduce wrinkles, smooth the texture of the skin and unblock pores.
In the Middle Ages, Europeans used animal fats and herbal remedies as face masks. After the Renaissance, many turned to bread soaked in rose water or oatmeal cooked in vinegar to soothe puffiness and prevent breakouts, which contain anti-inflammatory amino acids and antioxidants. In the 1800s, zinc oxide, which came in powder form, was used with lemon juice to brighten complexion. Zinc oxide can now be found in many sunscreens for promoting skin repair, reducing redness and relieving irritations like eczema or rosacea. In this same time period, skincare products like Chapstick, Vaseline and baby powder went on the market, marking what was essentially the beginning of the skincare product industry.
In the 1900s, the skincare industry picked up speed with the emergence of the first sunscreen that contained benzyl salicylate, which is a UV ray-absorber. Benzyl Salicylate contains salicylic acid, which also prevents breakouts. These chemical compounds can be found naturally in plants like hyacinth flower and ylang-ylang oil. Chemical peels also emerged during the 20th century, encouraging consumers to use chemical solutions containing glycolic acid, trichloroacetic acid, salicylic acid or carbolic acid to peel away the top layer of skin for a smoother, more even-toned result.
As the 2000s rolled around, skincare products containing hundreds of unpronounceable ingredients flooded the shelves of every pharmacy, grocery store and beauty supply store. In the early 2010s, YouTube saw an increase in skincare influencers like Liah Yoo, which roped in a new generation of skincare consumers. In 2020, during lockdown, individuals were looking to better themselves in all aspects of their lives while stuck inside. People were encouraging each other to work out at home, others were sharing recipes and hobbies, while others were sharing their skincare routines. This new wave of self-care shifted the skincare industry toward using more basic, natural ingredients. Brands like The Ordinary and Cocokind are known for making products that are their main ingredient, like The Ordinary’s Hyaluronic Acid 2% with B5 or Cocokind’s Vitamin C Glow Serum. Other popular brands include La Roche-Posay, Paula’s Choice and Skinceuticals, each with varying price ranges. With the influence of YouTube and TikTok, especially during lockdown, the popularity of skincare routines has given rise to many skincare influencers on both platforms. Jade Marie, Renée Chow and Hyram Yarbro are three top influencers on social media at this time. Dermatologists have also joined in on the skincare craze, with Dr. Muneeb Shah and Dr. Joyce Park being favored for their advice, feedback and opinions on viral TikTok beauty trends.
With the surge in skincare content on social media, it can be difficult to sift through any inapplicable or unwanted advice, which can leave consumers overwhelmed. Although the education of the importance of skincare is beneficial, many influencers receive endorsements from beauty brands. Therefore, companies continue to capitalize on the young market of consumers looking to better themselves. These trending skincare routines on social media platforms encourage a vicious cycle of fads that are more rapidly rotated around. This means that consumers are jumping on trends and buying more products regularly, rather than attempting to stick with products that are tried and true for them. This massive increase in product consumption is bad for the environment as it is wasteful, polluting the earth with packaging for beauty products and the chemicals used to make skincare products.
This cycle of trends can be harmful to the mental health of the consumers as well. The audience of skincare influencers remains relatively young, targeting individuals in their early teens to early twenties. This particular age group is the most influential age group on social media and are having their insecurities capitalized upon for the benefit of skincare companies. This industry also has an aura of classism around it, as most high-quality skincare products are unaffordable and exclusive, which can cause mental health strain on individuals who cannot purchase those products. However, there has been a recent push on TikTok for natural, affordable products from brands like CeraVe, Cetaphil and Neutrogena. This trend has also provided dupes to many luxury beauty products, expanding the skincare market to anyone.
Natural skincare products have existed for thousands of years and will likely continue to exist. Although these products are not overrated and have real health benefits, the industry itself is potentially harmful to its consumers through influence on social media and detrimental to the environment. Determining skin type and problem areas for consumers could help them sift through the dense content of skincare products and routines found on social media in order to identify steps and products for a skincare routine unique and beneficial to them.
